Monday, November 20, 2006

Gimmie Gimmie


Last Autumn I ventured over to the upper upper East. Roll into the small fishing town where my buddies call home. Drinkin' and laughin' at the local dive bars waaay up in our country. Fishing stories. Surf stories. Non-West coast stories. Hard stories.

The freezing bite of the air makes you so very awake and aware of all of your senses. Ending the first night by sitting on their porch at 1am burning a nice northeast spliff and planning the following morn, I knew it would be a special trip. Drift off to a tape of some local surf grainy footage.

Next morning came fast but when you aren't home, missing your sleep doesn't really have the same effect. You are stoked and ready. Buddy telling me to close my eyes are certain turn-offs on our surf check. He is kidding, but not really. I understand. Windy green roads. Up and down little hills. In and out of nooks. Trees turning every color. Too beautiful for a California kid's eyes.

Finally pick a spot. Peelin' left point. I am overly giddy and slightly bummed knowing this is the last new spot I will see this morning. Who cares. Water is clear and the swell is head high. Pumpin'. Scary. Exhillarating. Booties and hoodies. Hit the ocean and you instantly feel ALIVE. Backside lefts, missing barrels, outrunning the lip, electrified, getting the point wired, skate ramp feel, take in the scenery, the feel of the Atlantic Ocean. Hootin' and hollerin'. Repeat. And then repeat.

Gotta get back. Soon.

Didn't check the small high tide mush this morn, but the buoys showing 2.2 @ 11secs from 315

7 Comments:

At 7:19 PM, Blogger J said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

 
At 7:19 PM, Blogger J said...

Been craving your next blog. Worth the wait. Amazing. J

 
At 8:11 AM, Blogger warm jet said...

The variety of seasons in the east just makes for a richer experience of nature.
Living in SoCal one can sometimes feel robbed by our lack of climate
change.
Like now, as I look at this post.
Oh well, it's just nice to know it's still out here and being enjoyed.

 
At 9:36 AM, Blogger Patch said...

Right on, Push.

 
At 6:00 PM, Blogger Bill said...

I like your work !

 
At 6:41 PM, Blogger Paula the Surf Mom said...

Great Blog...

 
At 1:21 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Today's air temp is below freezing. Cold and sunny. Looks like we'll have waves this weekend, and ice-cream headaches. I can relate well to your story but you are the master at putting into words.

ras

 

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