Tuesday, October 31, 2006

Wave o' Lanterns

What a morn. Waves no more than rib cage high, about as high as this pic.

Not one car went by either way on the usually semi-busy street as a suited up. Old uptempo Willie Nelson song makin’ me boogie. Interesting to stop and look around at the hills, feel the still air, smell the ocean for once without cars zooming by. Paddle out, first out, super high tide but cleeeean as could be. Wave after wave after wave coming thru the point. Not big but well shaped and consistent. No one paddles out. Sunrise breaks thru the clouds looking like a huge old jack o’latern in the sky. Grab another 10 or so high tide mushy waves. No one out still. Otter pops his head up seemingly to say “Damn, we got it to ourselves today”. Grab another 20 or so long ones before I drag myself back to shore spent and stoked!

Best Halloween session. Very close to best under chest high session.

2.3 @ 14 from 200 degrees
1st out


At 3:59 PM, Blogger Sharkbait said...

Gotta love daylight savings just before Halloween! Keeps everybody but the diehards in bed.

At 6:13 AM, Blogger Patch said...

Stokin' session, I love those good in-between days.

At 11:48 AM, Blogger J said...

Love being escorted to a good surf sesh by Willie. Pancho and lefty.

Great post, very descriptive. J


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