Friday, October 13, 2006

Friday the 13th

First off, you should never sell your old surfboards. Unless you really never liked it. I never liked this board. It came out wrong. The local burnout shaper didn't give me what I wanted. It was fast but built weak. He probably thought I would never know the difference back 10 years ago when I was starting out. Or maybe he didn't care. Been burnt out by the scene. By the new scene.

So last night I did the unthinkable and sold that board to a kid that started up surfing last year. Knew it would be a good board for someone transitioning. 50 bucks is good for any board. The kid showed up and you could see he still has that new surf stoke. He wanted my old thruster as his first foray into shortboarding. As with everyone, you gotta start shortin' it sometime and on something. This would work well for his beach break winter closeouts. 6'6" X 19" X 2 1/2" of fun.

He then saw my homemade fish and his eyes lit up. Very interested in shaping his own board. Wild eyed about it like I am. We talked glassing, design, dimensions, mistakes. I told him he should go for it instead of buying shitty used boards like mine. He took my thruster just because he came all the way over to see it. But you could tell it wouldn't last. He'll make his own soon. It will come out a little odd. A little weird. But, he'll have that feeling, that only you could have, if you are riding on a wave on something you created. Nothing is like that. At least for me. Incredible.

It was cool to get stoked, even if it was out of the ocean, on anything surf lately. Man, it is always shitty when you don't surf for a week.

Swell here it looks like. A least it's something. But isn't it mid October?

2.2 @ 14 secs from 295


At 6:42 PM, Blogger J.P. said...


At 11:07 PM, Blogger clayfin said...

nice pic, nice story.


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