Losin' a Friend

She was a friend, a friend til the end.

We woke up early together. Got scared together in the big swell pre-dawn darkness. Enjoyed many long rides, many cutbacks, many insane speed runs.

Now I am afraid she is past being repaired. Been fixed too many times. Past her lifespan that she pushed for so long. Towards the end, yeah she was getting slow, getting tired, getting beat up, but she fought on and still gave me just enough for the needed bottom turns, the needed speed through the sections, one last powerful turn in the pocket. All with her beautiful two fins.

And now she will rest in my garage. With the other old and retired boards. Trying to enjoy the dry life. Her template will go on to many other offspring. Their lines a little more clean than hers. Their dimensions a little more true. Their rails more dialed in.

But she’ll always be my first homemade board....and she fuckin’ worked!!

4.1 @ 17secs from 180