Friday, September 22, 2006

Dead Swell

East winds a blowing. Choppy, punchy, small, gray, surf. Point felt like a beach break. Fun to be challenged to race the non-stop sections. Big loud kooks were out again yappin' and getting pitched. Seems a huge fat 10ft, 4" thick board doesn't race down the line fast. Who'd a thought.

Beautiful reminder that a new season is coming.

2.3 @ 14 secs from 190
1st out


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