Friday, September 08, 2006

Buoy Lyin'

What happened? Stoked at the early morn' buoys. Down coffee, make the dark drive, suit up in the car, listen to a great Marley live song "The Heathen". Stoked. Then paddle out. Catch a good one. Dawn light comes, a couple heads paddle out, we sit, and sit, and sit. Maybe one more chest high set. Then we sit, and sit, and sit. Three hours later, I am almost late to work and have to paddle back in. Couldn't wait for a wave any longer. Pathetic.

Did this little swell top out overnight? Damn. Not surf stoked sittin' here at work tired.

3am: 2.8 @20sec from 210
10am: 2.0 @14secs from 185
1st out


Post a Comment

<< Home