Thursday, September 07, 2006

Foggy Solo Point Pants

Suit up in car. Very dark. Scamper down the stairs and beach. Wait a bit. Solo thoughts. Warm dawn. Pre-light paddle out. Small. Waist high set comes. Ride it nice. Biggest wave all morn' was a chesty and luckily I snagged it instead of waiting/hoping for a bigger next wave. One wave sets. Every hour. But I was alone. Getting small medium length rides. In LA. From 5:30-8am. Little slice of perfection.

Burning sunrise through the fog was insane this morning.

1.6-1.9@14-17secs from 190


Post a Comment

<< Home