Lessons Learned.

Oh yeah, that is how head high waves feel like. I forgot. Good consistency. Good size. Good angle. Good power. Good vibes.

Rode my 5'10" thruster again, the fish is still dead. It is so interesting to turn exactly where and when I want to, to power out of the bottom turn, to not catch my front rail, etc. Never realized that the board that I made was such a dog. Well, shouldn't say dog, because it worked well. Just not that well. I understand how much of an art and a craft it is to build a surfboard. Much respect to the shapers.

But I would still pick riding the homemade board over the others anyday.


2.6-2.8 @ 17 secs from 185
1st out