Eve and Morn

both stunk, at least if you base it on wave heights alone. Other than that, they were two more beautiful sessions in the ocean.


Surfed a rare evening session last night and it seemed to be picking up at dark. So I go home, set the early alarm and am back out at the point before first light. Seems to be okay. Then the light comes and the waves don't. A lot of sittin', thinkin', rem
iniscin', loiterin', and borin'.


Too early for the South to hit apparently. Oh well, got 4 more waves than I would have had I stayed home. And saw the local seal up close for the first time. She popped up about 5 feet from me, stared, said "looks like they ain't no waves", and went on her way.

By the way, seemed a little red tide was sneaking in already. Tasted and smelled funky fishy.



2.6 @ 12 secs from 200 degrees
1st out