Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Eve and Morn

both stunk, at least if you base it on wave heights alone. Other than that, they were two more beautiful sessions in the ocean.

Surfed a rare evening session last night and it seemed to be picking up at dark. So I go home, set the early alarm and am back out at the point before first light. Seems to be okay. Then the light comes and the waves don't. A lot of sittin', thinkin', rem
iniscin', loiterin', and borin'.

Too early for the South to hit apparently. Oh well, got 4 more waves than I would have had I stayed home. And saw the local seal up close for the first time. She popped up about 5 feet from me, stared, said "looks like they ain't no waves", and went on her way.

By the way, seemed a little red tide was sneaking in already. Tasted and smelled funky fishy.

2.6 @ 12 secs from 200 degrees
1st out


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