Bummer

Stoked all week that a last little swell is coming from the south. Know the tide will be way up but that keeps the crowd done, or none at all. Checking the buoys all day yesterday, starting to get a little worried that it is not hitting yet, or will be very small. Stoked dreams of long solo point waves. Pop up in the dark cold morning and drive. Stoked. Last chance to say goodbye to my summer friend. She was so good to me this summer. So giving. So lovely. So pure. No one on the country road in, no one at the spot, no one anywhere. Suit up in the heated car and make the long run down. Still dark and don’t hear anything, certainly not the tell-tale crashing sound. Who cares, always long lulls here. Paddle out, worried but stoked being caressed by her waters. Her taste and smell bring back vivid memories of sessions past.

Then I sit. And sit. And take in the crisp beautiful sunset. And sit. Pick off a miniscule one that barely propels me forward. And sit. Start laughing and laughing realizing nothing is coming from the still horizon. Swim around a little and take the last day in. It was still worth it to say goodbye and goodnight to her. We’ll meet again.

1.4 @ 14 secs from 225
(1st and only out)