Thursday, November 30, 2006

Dreamin'



After surfing the points and reefs all summer it is a huge head change adapting to the shifting, pulsing, thick walling beach breaks. You gotta be quicker to your feet, quicker in your head, no second guessing, no lazy takeoff fade to the shoulder stylee, just spin, up, drop, pump, fight, and get out alive. You are on it.

Actually love the beachies better because of the quantity of waves. The disparity of every wave, the quick decision making, the feel when the bottom drops out, the hunting for the right line. And some lefts finally. But maannn do I wish I could have some of those suuuper long point rides again. In warm water. Where you can do whatever you want on the wave, try different moves, fuck around, and have a nice no duck dive paddle back out. Seasons change. You gotta adapt.

Didn't check it this morn however.

2.4 @ 4 secs from 310

4 Comments:

At 11:03 AM, Blogger J said...

I love your blog. I feel it. Jeanette

 
At 8:55 PM, Blogger reverb said...

...a large pointbreak take off and drop is not so easy...

 
At 9:42 AM, Blogger nmm said...

this pic....butterflies start to dance in the pit of my stomach....every time I look at it. I see that bump approaching and want to be there...

ps: Thank you. Truly flattered and humbled by your comment.

 
At 7:32 PM, Anonymous Lawless said...

I'd love to be spoiled by the consitancy of a point rifling off. Most of my surfing life all I've know n is fickly beachies with the occasional trip to epic lined up surf. If you can surf shifty, ever changing beachbreak, you can surf anything though. Once you get on a long point it's your playground...

 

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