Monday, January 08, 2007


Old snap from last month’s run of swells. Such a great day this day was. Powerful. New. Beautiful. Majestic. First paddle out at this spot I found a couple years back. Lowkey. Always exciting and exhilarating to jump into a new spot. The locals gonna be nice? The rocks gonna be nice? The kelp gonna be nice? I’m gonna get nice! Nice rotation out there, consistently big thumpy lumps rollin’ through, warm water, warm air, not a concrete structure in sight. Some scary ones that I gladly smiled and watched another head drop into. Hoots and hollerin’ and just good vibes which unfortunately does not happen all the time down here.

I have not got wet in about a week, goin’ fucking nuts, but my back is 90% now. Hit the bottom my last sesh and woke up the next morning to searing pain. The first time I have ever been hurt. Felt weird to feel my body this way. Got a slight glimpse into other people’s pain that have to deal with that every day of their life. Could I do it? I don’t know if I could. Major props to all that are going through something like that which keeps you out of the ocean. You are stronger than me. I am going insane. But at least I see the end near in a couple of days. Others are not as fortunate and I will remember those people when I get to paddle out next time. Don’t take anything or anyone for granted.

2.5 at 15 secs from 310


At 10:41 PM, Blogger J said...

No one is stronger. If we surf we feel the same insanity when we are kept from it. Its no different for you or him, or I, whether it be a day, week, month or longer. Not having the ability to stoke our addiction, having that choice removed from our day...It hurts us. Sometimes it just hurts in larger doses. We are completely different people when we are kept from our drug. I wonder if sometimes the enlightenment of who we are with out it is beneficial, as far as letting us know who we really need to be, who we are capable of being. If you were a 9-5'er with out this passion....take the water from every aspect of your life? Who are you really? Its not just something you do baby. Its who you are.

So, speaking of diving into
'new spots'....well you know. I wont lay it on thick. You know. Jeanette

At 12:22 PM, Blogger ras said...

push... man I love the photos and can only dream of the long period lines you get to surf on a weekly. we have not had a decent swell in what seems like weeks.

hope your back heals back to normal brejdren.


At 11:06 AM, Blogger Tim Kevan said...

Like the site. I have added a link on my own blog ( where I also write about surfing. If you want to swap links, it would be much appreciated. No worries either way. All very best, Tim Kevan

At 2:26 PM, Blogger nmm said...

Come hell or highwater....I'm water bound this weekend. Gonna be cold...definitely gonna need the booties.

ps: Hope the back is healing...


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