Wednesday, June 25, 2008

No Clock

Off on a plane ride tonight. To warm water energy. A couple hours from a bloated tourist mess. Is where I will be blessed. Findin' shacks and livin' in shacks. Just in time for a nice south. And cold beers for my mouth.

0.9 @ 12secs from 180

Friday, June 20, 2008


Woke up quick, at about noon, jus' thought that I had to be in Compton soon...

Well that sucked. Kinda. Alarm didn't go off at 4 like I wanted it to. Woke up at 5am and got pissed. Felt weird speeding off in the daybreak light when I normally woulda had several long olas by then. Knowing that there might be several heads on it already and I missed my hour of solitude. Damn.

Although, it was cool to see the surroundings and the lovely drive in the daylight, noticed so many more things! Super foggy as I hit the coast but the spot I picked was all clear. Moonset. First one out and only out for the session. My surfin' was off all morning though, I blame the late wake up and rushing to the ocean. Threw me off. Blown drops. A long belly ride. Weak turns. Feeble paddling. Pathetic attempts at speed.

On the long walk back to the car I passed by an older couple. The old dude stared at my board and said, "wow that musta been fun today, looks like you had it to yerself" Just those words calmed me down and I realized that I should take nothing for granted and not be pissed at some blown waves or a "late" start. Remember the good ones, remember that I had my pick of the sets, remember the tranquility of the early morning sealife and sounds, remember you're still livin'.

2.8 @ 14secs from 295

Thursday, June 19, 2008


Fun, fun, glassy lowtidin' fun allllll week.

Never any crowd in the predawn light.
Some heads show up a little after sunrise.
Donkeys/kooks/tools/fake brobrahs all show up an hour later after they pick each other up and get all their big ass boards into or on top of their cars and then buy coffee and then finally all get suited up after talking about their epic wave they somehow didn't fall on the day before. By then, I am fishin' my last wave in. My daily three hour bliss before the day gets ugly from traffic and bosses and tourists and ting.

2.9 @ 17secs from 200

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Misty Mornin's

Held off yapping about the fun session yesterday just to do my part.

SO fuckin' fun again and good this morn'. Early early dawn patrol had me by myself for the first hour plus. Misty, foggy, amazing mornin'. Clean, glassy, perfect tide, fairly consistent, great shape and swell angle and stoke! 10 or so long foggy dark rides before most people even stirred in their beds. Around 7:30ish the kookies all came out and it got kind of dangerous. Normally I would be pissed but I just sat there with a huge smile thinking of my 30+ rides earlier while they all fought and paddled and took off on anything and ditched their boards. If they only knew. Early bird get worm, seen?

As a buddy said this morning, "Classic day for this spot, just a classic day Push." Exactly.

3.0 @17secs from 200

Thursday, June 05, 2008


Woke up and checked the buoys at 2am, 5.1!, went back to bed dreamin' of fun windswell in the morn.
Pull up and it is suuuper glassy but not bigger than yesterday. Weird.
Guess it peaked overnight and dropped fast.
From 5am-6am it was hollow and fun on the neg tide.
From 6am-7am it got way smaller but still some fun peaks rolled thru.
After 7am it just went flat. Waves that did come in just kinda crumbled. Never seen a session change in size so fast in a long time.
Stoked I got some early though and it was nice to feel the warm sunshine and see clear water and some crazy octupus thingy on the sand.
Early bird got the worm today for sure.

2.9 @ 8secs from 310

Wednesday, June 04, 2008

What's weaker, me or the windswell?

Negative low tide peaks,
Too bad the windswell was weak.
Every worse was me kookin' out.
Hard. Flailing on some. Pathetic.
But a couple bigger chesties came in that I got some good turns in.
And then more kookin'.
Abundant sealife.
Warm olas.

Good news was that my ol' spot I thought was done started to shine again. Hopefully she shines even brighter tomorrow and I can get my feable skills back to match it.

3.1 @ 8 secs from 315

Monday, June 02, 2008


I had heard of Carl Fredrik Holtermann. Some dude that took off to Southern Africa about ten years ago. Landed at a spot above the wave rich country of South Africa. Just grabbed some clothes and his art tools and said fuck it! Set up shop just above Jangamo. He had some money from a rush of last minute art showin's and he built up a nice little house over there. Board shed out back. Very alone. Very live off the land style. Locals somehow loved this random white man. Invited him into their culture and Carl immersed himself in the no computer telephone no more work for the man existence. Livin'

A buddy took off to locate him one year. Of course, he had to bring three surfboards. Just in case, you know, if ol' Carl would have some local pals who would want to slide too. Flew into S.A. and drove the jeep north. Along cliffs. Over sand. Thru windy coastal roads. Surfin' the setups along the way. Cool head locals to share the amazing waves with. Many hot tips learned. Never did find Mr. Holtermann but he found his piece to the puzzle. Perfection. Livin'

But it didn't faze Carl if anyone found him or not. He'd just wake up, eat a pear off his tree, and walk to the cliff. Offshore breezes, swells from the southeast and beautiful warm water out his front yard. His daily choice. A long rippin' rocky right at a reef a 300 feet down the shore. Or a pointy left break about a mile the other way. The rocks around here, although sharp, made it fuckin' heavy and tubin'. And always on time was C. Fredrik. In heaven. Livin'

1.7 @ 12secs from 170 (yaay)