Thursday, August 30, 2007


"A Garden Grove fisherman was charged today with violating the federal Marine Mammal Protection Act by stabbing a California sea lion that later had to be euthanized.

Hai Nguyen, 24, of Garden Grove was charged with a misdemeanor count of taking and "attempting to harass, hunt, and kill a California sea lion," according to documents filed in U.S. District Court in Santa Ana this morning.

Nguyen was arrested in Newport Beach on July 27 for allegedly stabbing a California sea lion repeatedly with a steak knife after the animal stole his bait. The sea lion, which was swimming near the dock Nguyen was fishing from on Balboa Peninsula, was apparently so close that the fisherman could reach down and stab the animal.

The sea lion, a 6-foot female weighing about 150 pounds, was trapped by animal control officers and taken to Pacific Marine Mammal Center in Laguna Beach that afternoon. Doctors determined the animal could not be saved and euthanized it.

Fuck this guy. Asshole. Dick. Nothing better than seeing the playful cool sea lions around you out in a lineup. Stabbing the poor creature? For taking your fish?

He should be stabbed with the same knife as many times as he stabbed the sea lion. If he doesn't make it, oh well, euthanize him like the sea lion. Pound of flesh. Fucker.

Swell comin'

2.2 @ 12 secs from 195

Monday, August 27, 2007


No. That weekend just did not happen. Did it? Small weak sucky shitty wobbly windy gross stupid lame waves.

Sorry Ms. Ocean, but you did not give it up well. At all.


The ONLY redeeming thing was the stunningly amazing sunrises both days. Jaw dropping.

1.8 @ 14secs from 195

Friday, August 24, 2007


Hope to be cruisin' around here soon. With hundreds of others. Middle of summer. Perfect weather. Beginners everywhere. Second summer surfers findin' new spots. Lovely ladies workin' on tans but now combining that with surfing. Tourists lookin' to live Beach Boys lyric. No waves in months. Jonesin' heads. Daily rippers no matter how big the swell. New boards sittin' dry wonderin' why they were bought. Freshly patched boards lyin' around waiting. Bug eyes refreshin' buoy data every hour. Hopin'. Prayin'. Callin' and plannin' with buddies. Keep the stoke. Tryin' not to be down and outcast. Fall will come soon. Kinda can smell a bit of it in the air. Excited.

Might have to get out super early, even for me. Should be fun nonetheless. Summer swelly hot perfect weekend in California to you all.

1.8 @ 12secs from 180

Friday, August 17, 2007

Not today

Kinda forget what energy a wave gives off. What that push feels like.

Milkin', pumpin', thumpin', grovelin' this morning. Itchy eyes and nose red tidish feel to make it even more fun. Beauty o' a sunrise though.


3.5 @ 9secs from 305

Thursday, August 16, 2007


Some small windswell. Beautiful mornin'. Good to be back. My boards, well board, is now watertight and happy. Although a little pissed this morning at getting up at the pre crack o' dawn and barely being pushed by the ocean ripples.

Also, scored a niiiiiiiice 5'8 super channelled bonzerish board up north. C'mon swell, I want to feel what I know I can feel.

2.7 @ 8 secs from 305

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Just Shuckin' Around

Downtown metal and steel and concrete. Had jury duty turn into time off. So I had to got lost.

Shot out of town and into the wilds. Campin' and surfin' and chillin'.

Drop in.

Droolin' over the Conley snaps in the new mag.

Irie drunken nights with buddies. Ol' Shel ramblings are perfect.

Different buddies showed up different nights but I was on my trip. I had the time off, they were just glad I came thru their towns.They'd get mad when I would be gone in the early dawn as they just started to stir. I can't wait. Or else it turns into one more coffee, oh i forgot my wetsuit, oh i need to go back and get my other board, lets check this 5th spot and then decide. I'd rather just go. You'll all meet me. We talked about the spot over the campfire last night.

Found this mushy but empty fun right. 3 days in a row, 1/2 hour later each day as you are on the ocean's timepiece. But it was fuckin' perfection after two months of summer slop and sloppy crowds.

A campsite over spilled the beans on this left the night before. The brownies always spill the truth. Could see this workin' on a nice swell. Not these days but I was still satiated. Oh my. Empty summer olas far from anyone. Will set up shop here next trip I do think. Don't worry no talky.

Why don't I just drive way North more. Just fuckin' go. Not good? Keep driving up. But instead I... Get lazy. Get in the grind. Get in the wrong deal. Much more shuckin' around needed for this kid.

2.7 @ 8 secs from 305

Wednesday, August 01, 2007

Dinged Up

All my boards are dinged up. De-lammed up bottoms. EPS fishy delamed on 3/4 of the bottom. She had a sad life of only 3 or so months but she is on the mend. Heard from a dude in the know that this is happenin' with several EPS boards. They are workin' on it. Environmental change no come easy, seen? Hope they figure it out. Back to poly for now. 5'9 single. Short noserider hopefully. No power tools which is killin' me but guess it gives the feeling of "soul", whatever that is. I just love the process. No need to speed it all up. Although, I hope no one has to dig out a finbox hole with a knife and chisel. Ugly and slow but it'll do. Just take your time. And listen to some slow drippy dub to get your zone right.

Good time as any to go throw a no-board phase, lthough some heads are gettin' a little south right now. Doubt there is much of a crowd either in the dawn. Rip 'em! Not much else as far as waves and swell though so I can stay up late into the quiet night with my glassing and sanding. Resin fingers. Resin locks of hair. Co-workers looking strangely at my tinted fingers in the morning meetings. They just don't get the stoke.

1.9 @ 14secs from 205