Just Shuckin' Around

Downtown metal and steel and concrete. Had jury duty turn into time off. So I had to got lost.


Shot out of town and into the wilds. Campin' and surfin' and chillin'.


Drop in.


Droolin' over the Conley snaps in the new mag.


Irie drunken nights with buddies. Ol' Shel ramblings are perfect.


Different buddies showed up different nights but I was on my trip. I had the time off, they were just glad I came thru their towns.They'd get mad when I would be gone in the early dawn as they just started to stir. I can't wait. Or else it turns into one more coffee, oh i forgot my wetsuit, oh i need to go back and get my other board, lets check this 5th spot and then decide. I'd rather just go. You'll all meet me. We talked about the spot over the campfire last night.


Found this mushy but empty fun right. 3 days in a row, 1/2 hour later each day as you are on the ocean's timepiece. But it was fuckin' perfection after two months of summer slop and sloppy crowds.


A campsite over spilled the beans on this left the night before. The brownies always spill the truth. Could see this workin' on a nice swell. Not these days but I was still satiated. Oh my. Empty summer olas far from anyone. Will set up shop here next trip I do think. Don't worry no talky.


Why don't I just drive way North more. Just fuckin' go. Not good? Keep driving up. But instead I... Get lazy. Get in the grind. Get in the wrong deal. Much more shuckin' around needed for this kid.


2.7 @ 8 secs from 305