Wednesday, July 25, 2007


Well that sucked. Need to stare at this snap and dream of simple times gone by.

Got to the spot just before 5am and it was still dark and very foggy. Perfect. Paddled out. Enjoyed some chest highs every so often. Dark still but figuring out how much this swell was hitting and where. Only me and one other until 6:30ish and then the masses hit. 2 and 3 at a time. Big longboards. Long lulls. Mostly all different faces than I usually see at this spot. Wetsand/surfline readers probably. All of us just bobbing up and down and then frenzied paddling for any little blip. Sat inside, wisely, and picked off a couple that were starting to back off with the incoming high tide.

Long lulls. Few waves. Crowded to the gills. Not fun. Summer.

Ocean must have been punishing me for my thoughts and words on parking lot surfers, kooky 4-to-a-car surfers, warm weather surfers, the lot. Oh well.

As always though, early bird get thee worm.

1.9 @ 14 secs from 190
a ton of heads out


At 11:39 AM, Blogger warm jet said...

Summer is a freakin drag! Picking the right morning(usually a couple of days into a post lull swell) is something I still need to master.
I stayed out today because of yesterdays crowd effect on my personality. My mistake as today at my spot things lit up and crowd was burned out.

At 3:43 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

My ju ju is off. I have made two bad spot selections for my last go out's. Frothing and getting up early has not payed off. I am over thinking it. I am going go out at peak times an use my superior skills to earn a few.

At 9:49 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

How did the crowds find your mysto spot? Guess the avenues aren't a secret anymore.


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