Friday, August 24, 2007


Hope to be cruisin' around here soon. With hundreds of others. Middle of summer. Perfect weather. Beginners everywhere. Second summer surfers findin' new spots. Lovely ladies workin' on tans but now combining that with surfing. Tourists lookin' to live Beach Boys lyric. No waves in months. Jonesin' heads. Daily rippers no matter how big the swell. New boards sittin' dry wonderin' why they were bought. Freshly patched boards lyin' around waiting. Bug eyes refreshin' buoy data every hour. Hopin'. Prayin'. Callin' and plannin' with buddies. Keep the stoke. Tryin' not to be down and outcast. Fall will come soon. Kinda can smell a bit of it in the air. Excited.

Might have to get out super early, even for me. Should be fun nonetheless. Summer swelly hot perfect weekend in California to you all.

1.8 @ 12secs from 180


At 11:55 AM, Blogger Patch said...

Classic words and classic photo Push!

At 2:34 PM, Blogger clayfin said...

Good one Push. Sierra Park Ranger said the signs of an early Fall are here, the critters were getting ready.

At 9:17 PM, Blogger ian said...

yo PT! Thanks for da words man!

At 11:26 PM, Blogger surferbrat said...

Hey--Shark Bait and I surfed Malibu on Thursday the 23rd. It was tiny, crowded but still fun! My first time and I gotta say-I was lovin it-despite the LA traffic we got stuck in afterwards.


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