Monday, October 29, 2007



Buy up a little acre. Build several cabins on the land. Shape your boards in one. Travelin' buddies stay in another. You and your girl warmin' by the fire in the other. Livin' roof on all. Live off your own farm. The sun will power it all. Ride your bike to the cold perfect surf. Animals everywhere. Breathe in the fresh air. Live.

1.4 @ 9 secs from 310

Friday, October 26, 2007


Felt and looked just like this. Couldn't see shit all morning and loved it. Sudden thumps comin' thru. Drop into the abyss and dig that fin in. High tide mushy hold.

Then the orange sun showed thru. All you could see is gray and an orange ball. Beautiful. Super thick fog all morning until 8. Surprisingly fun and lumpy! Time to get out and work. Goin' back definitely for a low tide session this evening. A little visit to my Winter '06 buddy.

3.3 @ 12secs from 320

Tuesday, October 23, 2007


Don't feel like talking about waves today. Or what the tide was doing. Or how the swell is fading. Perspective.

Fight on firefighters!! We are very proud of you guys.

3.2 @ 12secs from 180

Sunday, October 21, 2007


Guess I am not chasin' that South today where I had in mind.

Churches burned down.
Acres and acres being torched by the strong winds.
Animal shelters evacuated.
Local animals probably scared and confused.
PCH closed from surf spot to surf spot.

Empty peelin' point lines if you camped overnight on the beach before the closure. Solo perfection like the old days? Offshores holding up little barrels as you look around almost all alone? Hot weather and winds against your face as you get 300 yard rides with just a few heads.

Hot damn. Hope no one is injured or hurt. Now, I guess, I am off to hunt somewhere else. Kinda puts it all in perspective though. Nature gives. Nature takes.

7.1 @ 14 secs from 295
2.1 @ 17 secs from 190

Friday, October 19, 2007

Laid Back

Sunny, calm, irie, relaxing, baby dolpins, small glassy olas, too steep angle, warm sunrisin' clear morn. Good to chill on a Friday before the onslaught of big drop-ins.

Easy glides and high fives.

2.1 @ 14secs from 315

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Junky Cold Medina

Junky, funky, small, cold, cloudy, gross, dirty, bumpy, not glassy. Had a meeting close to the beach. Got up, didn't check the buoys and winds mostly because I didn't want to know how shitty it was going to be. Pulled up in the dark and could see some white water and thought maybe this won't be too bad. I was wrong. Terrible. The pelicans could not even get more than a second of float on a wave. Good to feel the cold cleanse but that was about it. Felt like an early spring day. Just sloppy weak windswell. Oh well. Swell.

2.1 @ 12secs from 300

Monday, October 15, 2007


Swells of past. Gone. Man it was fun though wasn't it? Hope everyone got their stoke filled up again. I did. For an early northwester, the bars held up pretty good. Sure there were closeouts mixed in, but not as much as usual on a first good swell. Plenty o' corners and shoulders. Maybe the super high tides helped? Maybe I can finally read and predict where to go to get the maximum fun. Maybe I was just a lucky chap. Either way....fuckin' nice!

Pics from Joe Cool on the best day of last week. Look at that lump comin'. Drop in. Hey, it ain't closin' out. Pump on the big face. Stall in the section. Little drops hittin' your wetsuited back. Pump. Kick out. Smile huge. Take me back!

2.1 @ 10secs from 300

Friday, October 12, 2007


EDIT: Pic from this morning that shows the feelin'. From Here in Malibu.

Beautiful sunrise. That's about it. Big drop in size and never got in a good rhythm. Swell swung out more also. Still were some fun ones but just felt off. I blame the bloody lip.

Crappy and dumpy in the dark at 5am. Got a tad better around 6am but I got a tad worse. Turned offshore for a bit around 7am and got some little open faces. Again, a couple people show up as I was getting out around 8am. Next swell please.

2.4@12secs from 315

Thursday, October 11, 2007


Groomed, thickish, thumpy swell. Was SO much better in the dark around 5am but of course hard to see. Got better, and easier to judge at 6am and then had too much water around 7 to 8. Offshores too most of the morn!

Good to get the board, that I was going to sell to get some cash, flyin' down the line. Love it. Maybe I'll keep her. Shit, I already paid for it I guess and it did do me well in my 3rd world country trip a couple months back.

Tried to sneak up a big lip halfway thru the session and it smashed directly on my head and into my board. Bloody lip no ruin the stoke. And no one out 'til 7. I can't imagine how packed some of the known regular spots were. Oh my. But can't beat this Thursday mornin' for me!

4.7@ 12 from 310

Thursday, October 04, 2007

Boss Fogg

Super foggy. If it was 20% visibility yesterday, then it was 10% today. Love those conditions. Can't see a soul. Barely can make out the gray lumps. Barely can make out a couple grains of sand. Some corners. A little size. Feels like my own 50' X 50' playground. Some right positioning made for great drops and a schwackable shoulder. Rights and Lefts. Sea lion keeping me company. Having her own fun. Flipping around. Feeding. Enjoying. Sun fighting through the heavy clouds. Pink clouds giving way to yellow clouds. Make out a couple heads down the beach. More than enough peaks to enjoy your own.

Probably turnin' on now with the lowering tide. Instead I am turnin' on my computer for the growing work on my desk.

C'mon sandbars, start your winter formin'!

6.6 @ 9secs from 305

Wednesday, October 03, 2007

Rotting Tons

Whale washes up on the shores of Ventura. Scientists study it and determine it was decapitated by a big tanker. Dudes cut a huge hole in the whale. Drag it 10 miles offshore to sink. It doesn't. Slowly floats back towards land and ended up around Malibu. Rottin' dead whale flesh could be smelled up and down the northern Malibu coast. Lifeguards pull the rotting 70 ton whale out again and cross their fingers. Poor big thing deserves better than this.

Anyone think any sharks got wind of this?

Fun this morn. Consistently comin' in. Beautiful, beautiful morning. Damn sun comes out too late these days. But stayed local and didn't regret it. Gettin' back into the surf of things. Waves!

6.2 @ 14secs from 305

Tuesday, October 02, 2007


Oooohhheeeee. 'Twas fun out there, up there today. Traveled for a bit but it paid off. Usually does. Get outside of your common-ness. Pedal to the metal. Compass to the north. A little windy but not at someplaces. More people than usual but more than enough to stoke all. Salty eyes and burnin' arms. Got to get to work and act sick.

6.1 @ 14secs from 310