Thursday, October 11, 2007


Groomed, thickish, thumpy swell. Was SO much better in the dark around 5am but of course hard to see. Got better, and easier to judge at 6am and then had too much water around 7 to 8. Offshores too most of the morn!

Good to get the board, that I was going to sell to get some cash, flyin' down the line. Love it. Maybe I'll keep her. Shit, I already paid for it I guess and it did do me well in my 3rd world country trip a couple months back.

Tried to sneak up a big lip halfway thru the session and it smashed directly on my head and into my board. Bloody lip no ruin the stoke. And no one out 'til 7. I can't imagine how packed some of the known regular spots were. Oh my. But can't beat this Thursday mornin' for me!

4.7@ 12 from 310


At 12:12 PM, Blogger Bill said...

nice !

At 12:47 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...



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