Tuesday, November 25, 2008


Tops and bottoms of my glassin' slippas. They've been thru a lot. Bottoms are caked with resin and dust and beer and color. I can trace every homemade board's lineage by checkin' these. Already jonesin' to add some more resin drops to them.

Takin' the newly finished and revived stick for an up north trip(I will have to bring that old Mobb Deep cassette with me). Should be big and scary and stormy with some lovely hikes and stoney nights.

Happy Turkey Day Week all. Hope everyone scores and smiles. And keeps it secret.

2.1 @ 11secs from 300

Tuesday, November 18, 2008


Foggy and small but felt good to get wet in the cool ocean. Rinse off the fiberglass resin dust. Swallow some dirty water. See a sea lion chillin'. See the pelicans swoopin' low. See the sea.

1.9 @ 12secs from 285


Check out that ugly bump down by the tail. I got out as much as I could before I glassed it but couldn't go any thinner. Oh well, it adds character. It's not like my shapes are perfect anyway. They fit my kooky style.

Kept as close as I could to the original boards' yellowish color. Ugly but original. Had to do a lame resin swirl attempt on the bottom just to change it up.
Just got to do a hotcoat and she is done!

1.5 @ 13secs from 295

Sunday, November 16, 2008

70's Haze

First snap on the way to the beach, second snap on the way back. Quick Sunday Eve dip to hit the low tide glass and see a cool sunset. Ash everywhere in the water. Heavy hot feel. Small olas. Refreshin' ocean. Give thanks.

2.9 @ 12 secs from 295

Friday, November 14, 2008


No matter how shitty of a day you had. No matter if you are pissed off that you blew that one drop this morning. No matter if you are angry at your boss makin' you come in to work in the morning therefore having to surf the mushy swell killin' DP tide. No matter if it gets dark so early now that you can't make an evening session. You didn't fuckin' lose your house today.

Some people did. Heart goes out to them. One of those less fortunate was Santa Barbara super shaper Dave Johnson. Lost his house to the fire as did many others. Apparently, a couple years ago he lost his shapin' shop to a fire too. Maaan, that's not right.

Step back and realize and give thanks at what you have. You never know when you might lose it.

Go here to find more info to help out: http://surf.jonshafer.com

3.8 @ 12 secs from 300

Wednesday, November 12, 2008


Dammit. Couldn't help myself. Love fish too much. Everything in my world becomes a fish. This one will be interesting because the rocker is more curved than a traditional fish. Will be good for the winter steep droppin' beachies.

4.3 @ 14secs from 305 DAMN HUGE HIGHTIDE!

Monday, November 10, 2008


Froghouse style. An ol' Bobby Kazanis shape (thanks Beetle!). Fibrecraft glass peelin' off well. Weird plastic blocks of ding repair in a couple spots. Wonder all the waves before me this board has seen. What shape do I want out of this? Rebirth. Reuse. Recycle life. This is gonna be fun!

4.1 @ 11secs from 315

Sunday, November 09, 2008

Superlight Single

Second board. First "real" board. Garage sale pickup for forty bucks. Stained yellow. Dude said it was from the early '70s. Who cares, here's forty, gimmie!

70's Froghouse Single Fin Pintail.
6'9"x20 1/2"x2 5/8"
Clark foam superlight.
Fibrecraft glassed.
Shaped by B. Kna.... ?

Rode it scared shitless at big Jalama. Kooky drops up in Montara. Classic Rincon towards the end of it's life. Central Coast surfin' and this board was perfect for it. Great sessions. Frightening sessions. Smooooth sessions. Dinged and repaired. Waterlogged and dried. Been thru it all. She died about 10 years back I'd say. Up in the attic to live out her land life. Five years back, I dug out the finbox to use on one of my first homemade singles. Probably the same time when she got graffitied with a wierd face. And then back up in the attic the board stayed.

Took her down recently. Thought about recyclin' the old soul. Maybe I could peel the glass off, reshape her, glass her, and give her another life? Another chance to get wet! Feel the ocean again!

Anyone know who might be the shaper? All I can read is B. K (looks like a "Kno.." or a "Kna..."). The "custom glassing" was done by Fibrecraft Glassing which I can't find anything about either.

9.5(!!) @ 7 secs(!!) from 295 with 40knot winds

Tuesday, November 04, 2008

Skate to Vote

Rainy days and junky surf have had me spendin' late nights around LA in some parking garages. 10 floors of downhill fun, stop on the 2nd floor to not get seen by the guard, skate over to the elevator...to floor 10 please! Repeat. Over and over. So fun. Only got chased out of one garage.

This is my homemade board. Just a leftover piece of redwood plank. Was sketched on the first couple runs on it but she has lasted well over a couple years now!! Amazed at what you can do on your own if you try. And I don't try enough sometimes.

2.1 @ 10secs from 310

Saturday, November 01, 2008


Got bored and went out of my way. Kept drivin' timing the tide high.

A destination always remembered in my head from a couple years back.

Oil glass. Kelpy fast. Some good lumps. Deep respect. Take the scraps.

Even saw some LA rain!

2.2 @ 11secs from 275