DJ
No matter how shitty of a day you had. No matter if you are pissed off that you blew that one drop this morning. No matter if you are angry at your boss makin' you come in to work in the morning therefore having to surf the mushy swell killin' DP tide. No matter if it gets dark so early now that you can't make an evening session. You didn't fuckin' lose your house today.
Some people did. Heart goes out to them. One of those less fortunate was Santa Barbara super shaper Dave Johnson. Lost his house to the fire as did many others. Apparently, a couple years ago he lost his shapin' shop to a fire too. Maaan, that's not right.
Step back and realize and give thanks at what you have. You never know when you might lose it.
Go here to find more info to help out: http://surf.jonshafer.com
3.8 @ 12 secs from 300
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