Sunday, December 30, 2007

Ponderin' and a Wonderin'

Borrowed a 5'8" fishy and crusin' around the coast. Friends, family, new friends and friends that shouldn't be friends. A lot of solo time since most don't surf surprisingly. Do my time and then explore. New discoveries. New fears. A new sense of COLD. Uninviting and inviting all at once. Couldn't handle it sometimes. Especially on a short flat flyin' board. But that didn't happen much. High trimmin'. Low dippin'. Fun ones up around in this state of California. Beautiful setup this coast has if you just go. Too must feastin' and still want more.

6.2 @14secs from 310


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