Wednesday, December 05, 2007


Lowkey session this morning. Travelin’ thru the burnt brush which you can still smell in the pre dawn still air. Tasting the burnt ash in the ocean. Big plumpy walls rollin’ thru. A couple out only and several OH waves peeling in. FUN. I got mine and got out before the crowds started to appear around 8am. Drivin' back I noticed a little house on the hill I always admired was all gone except for the chimney. Sad. Loved that little pad on the hill.

Big respectful RIP to the Northern California hellman who lost his life. Feel for his kid and family.

17.5 @ 17 secs from 265 (but I hid at a south spot)


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