Friday, January 04, 2008


Gray clouds movin' in last night. Hopin' the wind will stay right overnight. Smell of rain in the air but no sign of it. Roll outta bed and load the board as the sky seems angry but know this could be my only chance. Buoys up. Pull up in the dim darkness and I see the white lines and what? it looks clean! Suit up super fast to the thumpin' tunes of Black Moon to get the vibe right. Run down and it turns out to be a fun session. All alone and some lumps comin' in. A little walled but the ocean feels clean and happy while the sky seems angry and dirty. Perfect. Surf a couple of hours and just at the tail end of the session the sky starts to influence the ocean. Ocean gets bumpy and swirly, time to go! Get into work just as it starts to rain down. Love these mornin's.

6.2 @ 14secs from 300


At 2:00 PM, Blogger surferbrat said...

Jesus Christ, that's a great shot. Glad u got it good.

At 6:39 AM, Blogger ras said...

DP bandit strikes again and scores. Your descriptions are great. Haven't listened to the Black Moon in ages.


At 3:23 PM, Blogger asmith said...

Good score. I almost pulled the trigger this morning, even with some rain. Now I know I'm on land for a few days.

At 12:00 PM, Anonymous Ed Fladung said...

and i thought i was the only one listening to early 90's backpacker hip-hop before surfing sessions. latest rotation: Gangstarr - Hard to Earn


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