Friday, September 18, 2009

Out West

Rollin' bones this mornin'. Like my man Biggie Smalls.

Shifty beachie. Lots of longish rights. Lotsa closeouts. Speedy sections. Fast walls. Old wintertime spot all week. Good to see it's shape is fairly good for so early in the season. Even saw speed-walkin' lady go by. I've seen her out there for 10 years or more. Crazy dedication.

Love sunny warm morns where you roll the bones, turn and drop, see whatcha got.

4.8 @ 12secs from 310


At 12:46 PM, Blogger Le Vyusher said...

Walker lady trips me out how far she goes. Familiar sight indeed and a part of the DP coastal search.


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