Friday, November 20, 2009

Heady


Foggy, fishin' and burnin'.

Thick lovely fog. Spliffin' in the bushes beforehand. Rocksteady. Had the day off and needed to see how the other side of the homemade board felt.

Less shape but better when the tide got higher. Talked to a guy who paddled out later in the morn who said "good to see it is that time of year again, where I see you runnin' down to the ocean at 5am stoked".

3.8 @ 14secs from 305

2 Comments:

At 9:17 PM, Blogger nm said...

2 in as many days....excellent work tide.

word ver = tufiess

 
At 6:43 PM, Blogger Beetlejuice said...

Nuuhiwa used to paddle into the lineup with his ciggy in his mouth,nothing cooler than that. OMG! a cigarette!!

 

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