Sunday, February 18, 2007

Addicted



Damn. Can't remember the artists' name but it fits. Neg low tide goodness. You want it little kid? Yes. Yes. Yes!!

Filthy, dirty, stinkin' water but a good fresh clean swell comin' through. Fun times in front of the rocks. Becoming more consistent. It was quantity over quality though. Just couldn't get the beast movin' down the line fast enough on some takeoffs. Felt the couple days off to mess up my rhythm just enough. The quality ones more than made up for the missteps, however. So close to the barrel. So close.

Today should be the day it all comes together at a certain time and place. Good angle. 17 sec energy. Jonesin' right now. Can't sleep. Need it. Need my drug.

One head out told me a fox washed up down at the farthest north jetty yesterday mornin'. Nice. Love the spill.

7.3 @ 17 secs from 285

4 Comments:

At 2:10 PM, Blogger surferbrat said...

Damnit, reading about the spill infuriates me. I just can't understand why it's ok for this to keep happening, why no one has been penalized enough to prevent this in the future? It's really distressing and I hope that everyone is finding an active outlet for their frustrations, because as surfers and nature lovers, we really need to get involved, and make it as big a priority as getting out in the water is.

 
At 4:00 PM, Blogger Jgirl said...

Looking forward to the next report, sounds like a sweet period. Be stealthy, find the barrel.

 
At 5:49 AM, Blogger warm jet said...

that image you used looks like a Ed Ruscha painting playing on our racist drug attitudes.
Glad you caught the neg. spot!
i was curious bout the size and crowd factor?
regret i missed the drainers.

 
At 2:07 PM, Blogger Sharkbait said...

Dang. That picture is really hard to look at.

Our poor ocean. This sucks.

 

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