Friday, March 09, 2007

Peaky


Fuck, dawn light is coming on and I am still driving. Antsy for the waves I am missin'. Late start semi on purpose and regretted it. Already 6am. Damn. Hate not making it to the sand before light.

Pull up to peaky goodness a plenty. Never park in a parking lot. Don't need to see the surfer tough guy stares, the fat old coffee drinkers yappin', the trucker hat set, the 4 kooky friends suiting up. Just find one on the street and walk down the hill. For some reason it feels more right.

Perfect Manhattan Beach mornin'. Up and down the coast. Decent windswell. Consistent wedgies. Cloudy fogginess. Sheet glass lumps. Cool damp sand. Just enough chill in the air. 3 hours of consistent chesties. Some jacking super fast but rewarded only with a short shoulder. More than enough flow to spread out the crowd. Never saw the sun and that is alright. Get on with it.

5.1 @ 14 secs from 305

8 Comments:

At 11:48 AM, Blogger Patch said...

For me, it was breaking up top, not enough to wrap. The south may be a little tardy.

 
At 12:50 PM, Blogger warm jet said...

And for I, figuring on the westy and knowing it's a wind swell, I drove as well, to Oxnard.
You'd a thunk gooness yet, SHUTDOWN!
Darby in my head, Shutdown!!!!!
i guess the southy is there.

 
At 1:46 PM, Blogger nmm said...

My pool doesn't have peaks....

 
At 2:04 PM, Blogger pushingtide said...

Nothing up North? Really. Sucks man.

Souths are always in the slow lane.

 
At 11:54 PM, Anonymous rob70 said...

oh man, that looks fun.

 
At 11:03 AM, Blogger ras said...

Nothin in the martimes -cold, windy, snow and rain.

 
At 3:19 PM, Blogger Dogtownsurfer said...

Don't we wish - that guy took a nice face plant about .186 seconds after that picture. Actually came up spitting sand / dirt / old fish hooks..... why anyone would surf what I saw at the Pier when the points are so much better is beyond me.

 
At 3:21 PM, Blogger Dogtownsurfer said...

Oh, for those who want to see what we are talking about -

http://www.venicesurfreport.com

 

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