Wednesday, March 14, 2007


Familiar cars at the pitch black spot. Hmm, summer must be on her way. Still got out first as I know the occupants of those cars wait until light for their go outs.

Paddled out at 6am and sat in the dark trying to judge and dodge the black waves comin' at me. Damn fog!! The dawn light shoulda been out by now. Caught my first a little after 6:20. Surfin' on feelin' and memory. Still couldn't really see. But it was FUN, a screamer, well in the dim light, every wave feels ten times as fast. Thick fog allowing some light finally. Caught three more long ones all by my lonesome. Some other heads join. Great vibes out in the ocean.

Takin' turns.
Givin' nods.
Smackin' lips.
Talkin' talk.
Smilin' smiles.
Stokin' stoke.

Felt strange and wonderful to be on my new twin after riding a single for the last 4 months. Felt stiff to turn which is odd but that probably just my skills and feet thinkin' they are still turnin' a single fin. FUN, glassy, consistent, bigger, gray mornin' out in the drink.

3.1 @ 14secs from 190
1st out


At 12:15 PM, Blogger Patch said...

drink it up!

At 11:09 PM, Blogger Jgirl said...

Aaahhh...Fog...darkness...goin' by the force.


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