Wednesday, April 04, 2007


Satiated. Cool to feel the single fin feel again. Sorry for myself for feeling so bummed the last couple. Swell is here. I can paddle out. I have all my arms and legs. I can surf 2-3 hours before work every morning. I am able to seek out lesser known spots. I can see a full moon dip into the ocean, if there isn't any fog. I can watch a sea lion stare at me in wonder. I can glide along an open glassy face in my thoughts. Still wish I have my new fishy with me.

We are all fortunate if you can surf at all.

Dark. Foggy. Crisp. Clean. Sets. Push. Trim. Glide. Head Dip. Last wave to the sand. Try not to look back to see more that you will be missin'. Stoked, and jealous, for the dude on a long one as I head up the hill. Wash off. Sit in car. Smile at traffic and the drones who have no clue what they missed. Sit at work. Yay

3.0 @ 17 secs from 200
1st out


At 9:28 AM, Blogger Patch said...

I do the same, after a surf I look at all the sad people in their cars going about there business. It's like we know a secret to life or something.

At 11:50 AM, Blogger clayfin said...

love the one you're with! Do you have a leash on that fish? Could be the culprit.

At 7:42 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

Well, thank you for feeling my pain. This weekend warrior surf thing is just plain wrong. At work today, I was a grouch (after having seen Malibu firing when I looked at the cam before work). I'm not going to get a piece of this swell, but I am now admitting that this cubicle and I will be getting a divorce sooner rather than later. So, get some waves for me!

At 11:27 PM, Blogger Doc said...

I had my best session of this short year today...perfect chest to head lefts...glassy and fast...I too, feel much better.


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