Monday, December 01, 2008


This ol' snap sums up the up north trip. Buddies, dutchies, fishies and hikin' in the cool fog. Water is so crisp and clear up above LA. Everything feels more alive and "nature-y". People are more real and down home. Just a different lovely vibe.

Oh and my renewed homemade worked OK. Only surfed it a couple of times and always would trade it out for my other fish. Think it is more of a novelty than anything. Still cool to surf some of the same spots on the same foam, just reworked. Maybe I'll get used to it. Maybe it will just be a story to tell.

Back home the last couple days just in time for more big swell. Certain places blown out, certain places not working and certain places doin' it well. How fuckin' great is surfing!!!!!!

5.1 @ 17secs from 295


At 2:42 PM, Blogger Christian said...

Word. I am grateful for every session. There's going to be plenty of time for old age, arthritis and all that shit that comes with the ravages of age.

At 4:43 PM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

That's pretty cool putting the old foam back in to service at the old haunts. Sustainable nostalgia.

And as far as "certain places not working", yeah, I can give you about 25 miles of coastline that wasn't feelin' it for one reason or another. Gotta hit the road tomorrow.

At 6:21 PM, Blogger Bob Welsh said...

I love that photo!

At 6:22 PM, Blogger Jamie Watson said...

Sorry that was me, not my brother who loves the photo. (-:


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