Saw the super steep angle on the buoys and knew where to go. Second car, first out. Dark fog. Full moon tryin' to peak out. Many rides to the sand. Tiring paddle back out. Very consistent. Lovely glassy gray morn.
damn I wish i had yer LA knowlege of spots. I live here yet end up driving too far most times to get real goods. Got a chance to get wet and went to the zoo. Fun, but that looks better. I want the juice. good for you.
i did like you do today and was in the water at first light. just me and by friend and no one to even watch us surf. waves were clean and perfect. thanks for the inspiration and keeping us involved in your great surf lifestyle.
4 Comments:
damn I wish i had yer LA knowlege of spots.
I live here yet end up driving too far most times to get real goods.
Got a chance to get wet and went to the zoo. Fun, but that looks better.
I want the juice.
good for you.
All that kelp...looks like The Lane....?
I think I know where that pic was taken, though when you say steep angles I'm not 100%. Anyway, it's always fun to try and guess spots.
I hope someone caught that silky gray wall...
push,
i did like you do today and was in the water at first light. just me and by friend and no one to even watch us surf. waves were clean and perfect. thanks for the inspiration and keeping us involved in your great surf lifestyle.
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