Numbers

Frohoff. Mitchy. Body Glove. Man this spot was primetime back in the beer soaked toobs of Hermosa Beach. Lived down the way 10 blocks for 5 or so years. Beautiful memories. All time's. Closeouts. Corners. Edges. Whatever it was fun. Always a ripper or two out. Cool head locals. You're in their world. Community. Family. Shred in the mornin' glide the evening glass offs and knock around a volleyball middays. Smashin' cans and talkin' shit. Stumble over to your back house with a lady or two. Rippin'. Livin'!

Last winter I paddled out there only a handful of go outs. It always beat me up pretty fair. But it would only take a stokin' hollow line to make it all worth it. Shape, when on, is ON. It was one of those spots where you can just feel the past. All the legends of those times. Next swell, I'll say hello.


7.6 @ 12 secs from 305
Didn't paddle out