Industrial

Hidden behind a power station is this polluted, shallow right hander. Coast is always blown out but when some rare winds blow strong and hard for a day or so a wave breaks which is the most impressive, beautiful, unusual, on and on. But a surprisingly heavy fuckin' spot. Breaks only 2-7 times every year when the swell travels up a deep trench and wraps around 280 degrees. Feels bottom. And winds like the face of a clock down a a man made boulder point. I was lucky to tuck into one of those days.

The water is so polluted. White water fizzes from the toxic detergent. Just copiously containing lubricants leavin' your fingers a soapy slimy feel to them. Oh yeah, the wave is also surrounded by heavy industry and is just over the river from the biggest chemical production installation in the country. Just to add to the pollution of the playground. Still very worth it.

Long hold downs.
Pollution.
Large ships.
Bad rips.
Uneven concrete substrate.
Foreign matter (such as bicycles, junk and junk).



Beauty amongst the heavy industry. No locals, just a dedicated crew. They'll wait patiently every winter for perfect conditions to combine. And wait. And score. You dont see guys for ages until they surface at this wave. You then don't see them again until it breaks again. This wave is for "hardcore highly competent surfers. Only", was my couple over the seas buddies response who turned me on to it. Well somehow I survived. Fall '99.

Don't drop in. Wait your turn and try not to get swept out to sea.



6.1 @ 12secs from 295
Too much booze. Took the mornin' off.