Sunday, April 22, 2007

Industrial

Hidden behind a power station is this polluted, shallow right hander. Coast is always blown out but when some rare winds blow strong and hard for a day or so a wave breaks which is the most impressive, beautiful, unusual, on and on. But a surprisingly heavy fuckin' spot. Breaks only 2-7 times every year when the swell travels up a deep trench and wraps around 280 degrees. Feels bottom. And winds like the face of a clock down a a man made boulder point. I was lucky to tuck into one of those days.

The water is so polluted. White water fizzes from the toxic detergent. Just copiously containing lubricants leavin' your fingers a soapy slimy feel to them. Oh yeah, the wave is also surrounded by heavy industry and is just over the river from the biggest chemical production installation in the country. Just to add to the pollution of the playground. Still very worth it.

Long hold downs.
Pollution.
Large ships.
Bad rips.
Uneven concrete substrate.
Foreign matter (such as bicycles, junk and junk).



Beauty amongst the heavy industry. No locals, just a dedicated crew. They'll wait patiently every winter for perfect conditions to combine. And wait. And score. You dont see guys for ages until they surface at this wave. You then don't see them again until it breaks again. This wave is for "hardcore highly competent surfers. Only", was my couple over the seas buddies response who turned me on to it. Well somehow I survived. Fall '99.

Don't drop in. Wait your turn and try not to get swept out to sea.



6.1 @ 12secs from 295
Too much booze. Took the mornin' off.

9 Comments:

At 9:54 AM, Anonymous reverb said...

...somethin like ole Big Wednesday crew...

 
At 7:32 PM, Blogger Gazelle said...

wicked right...

 
At 9:36 AM, Blogger nmm said...

damn...

 
At 11:56 AM, Blogger Foulweather... said...

Great blog entry, right up my alley. Stunning photos. Did you take them? Civillized hell meets the sea. I love it. I'm actually putting together a zine that dwells heavy on this theme. Love to feature one or two of those photos if they are yours...

 
At 12:21 PM, Blogger warm jet said...

let's share?
ifyouonlyknew@sbcglobal.net

 
At 6:25 PM, Blogger Jgirl said...

I love it! Great post. reminds me of a dump drainoff local we surf up north. Not for the weak stomach, but worth the cancer ten years from now!!

Great ship pic, makes me want to tie off to the ferryboat.

 
At 10:53 PM, Blogger Kirk said...

Thanks, I bailed on a go-out today because of runoff heebie jeebies, and now this makes me feel like an utter crybaby. That second to last shot is damn near perfect

 
At 12:15 PM, Blogger Foulweather... said...

Ah the UK eh? I'm guessing NE, near Newcastle. Crazy, as a Brit surfer I never would have guessed...

 
At 8:38 PM, Blogger JP said...

Dood...krazy.

 

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