Wednesday, April 11, 2007


This snap from long ago on another coast looks exactly like it did this morn, only it was much bigger and meatier. Out in the blackness dodging dark bombs. Tryin' to get my bearings. Nothing seems as it was. Where the hell are the waves breaking? Lumpy explosions. Offshore winds. Non-stop consistent waves. Clean ocean surface. Tough paddle out even though it is an easy point. BOMBS! Lotsa closeouty waves breaking waaaay outside. Lineup was all shifted about 100 yards to the left it was breaking so far outside. Got a couple big long ones that had my little single chattin' and glidin' down the face. Get out before it eats you. Seasoned dude had a classic line when asked why he didn't make it to another point. "Why pass by surf for surf?"

Great day to be alive. Stoke and adrenaline will be pumpin' in me all day. Perfect.

Buoy down
1st out!!


At 1:25 PM, Blogger warm jet said...

ditto baby!
Point fun.
2morro barrel hunt.
good on ya.
Had my little 5 fin Bonzer(troublemaker) on the speed runs and sooo nice to get a big open face carve!

At 1:37 PM, Blogger Patch said...

Glowin inside. Oh yeah!


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