Premature Paddle
Bouy did not change since 2pm yesterday. Watching it all day at work hopin' and wonderin' why it still showed 1.9 @ 18 secs. Shouldn't the swelly be cruising in? Old guy out in the lineup mentioned that the buoy has been down and has not changed and maybe no one will show up this morning thinking it is still small and we'll score! Well, not really....
Nice to see the fog layer lift over the morning dawn for once. Found out that I can paddle out earlier than 5:55 now without the clouds. Sunny, crisp morn. See some bigger ones comin' in and start my stoked run to the point. Paddle out, looks good, and then sit. More join. More sittin'. What happened? Think we were all jonsin' too hard and timed it too early. Some powerful, lotsa water movin', warbly, closeouty ones came thru every so often for signs of what is bearing down on us. Too bad it didn't totally work out this morn but still glad I got wet. As always.
You all afternoon no workers are going to be happy.
2.1 @ 20 secs from 175
First out!!
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As you know, that northern stretch of LA County can skunk you big time - swells need to be solid, from the right direction, and sometimes need an extra day to filter in there. A very different set of issues from Oregon...
Sometimes just getting wet...is all that's needed.
Stoneresque shot that. I like. By the way, that book of Stoner pics arrived today and I got sunburnt sittin out in the garden flicking through it. Mucho thanks for the tip!
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