Flawless

Woke up and see the trees have stopped violently moving. Stoked! Jump in the car, drive, Big Youth tunes on the tape deck and pull up to the spot. No one out and it is head high low tide niceness. And glassy!!! Suit up and run down. Damn, where’d that head come from? Paddle out, cold ass duck dives, freezing upwelled ocean but it is consistent and workin’. Catch too many walls to count. Head that is out is a older stoked ripper. Hootin’ and hollerin’. Old local but lives in PV now and doesn’t make it to this spot often. Can see in his eyes that he has, and is, enjoying the amazing PV coastline daily. On it. Knows every nook and cranny with what tide. Vintage stories of spots I never knew worked pumpin’ in the 70’s and 80’s. Cool head givin’ me waves but you can sense he owns peaks whenever he surfs. If it were more than just us out, he would be takin’ the best sets. Instead today he gives. And gives. My eyes light up on late drops surprised some stranger is hootin’ me in the top olas.

A ripper friend of his comes out. Another local. Late 70’s high school graduates. Years and years and waves and waves of experience. Knowledge. Perfect positioning. Perfect timing. Barrels where I don’t even see them. 5’8 little board. RIPPING.

Sploooosh!
Schhhhwwwack!
Fuckin’ rad.

Amazingly crisp, sunny, pumpin’, windswelly morning tradin’ waves in LA. They both leave cold and I am all alone to take any set I want. Non stop waves. Non stop flow. Can’t be beat. Satiated.

8.9 @ 14 secs from 295
2nd out