Serene

Puuuuuuuuuuumpin'. All the reports calling for round the clock winds. Thrashed surfaces. Victory at sea. Hmm. Don't feel it. It was calm in my yard at 10pm last night, wake up at 4:30, still calm, even a trace of E winds, swell up, stoked. Let's go!

Pull up to the workin' sandbar from last swelly and there are lines everywhere. Looks big. Waves reelin' down the line. What? Two out already. Damn. Paddle out into the glassy lumpy consistent swell. Know the heads. Local ripper and his buddy. Another joins us but all are cool. And good. Us all trading waves and hooting each other.

Thick schwacks and heavy barrel time. Deceivingly speedy waves and thick thumpings. Whoa, where'd that come from? And give me more. Laughin' to myself at all the people that are sleeping in thinking it is onshore and nasty. Opposite. Sunny and calm. Beautiful.


8.0 @ 12 secs from 295
3rd out