So Very Cal

What a fun windswell and groundswell combo.
Friday lumpy and frumpy and jumbled and gettin' big.
Cinco De Mayo large playful waves and the water was a movin'.

Sunday was the day it all came together.
80 degree morning weather.
Perfect tide.
Clean ruler edged reef lines.
Slightly offshore.
Glassy and oily.

Only me and a couple others throughtout the whole weekend. Cool heads. Everyone super happy and amped. Overheard stories of far off vacations recently. Pros ripping a point before the Teahupoo contest. Slater doing unreal 720 flips. Surf stories. The fish was LOVING the spot I picked for the weekend fun. Gettin' it wired. Gettin' into to everything. Super speed around sections. If I could rip, I coulda ripped harder. Long speed walls to five on the nose. Perfection in the warm Southern California sun.

Paddled out this mornin' tired and sore but for no other reason than knowing it would be a clean warm sunny session. Only one out. All of the barrels and big speed walls gone. All of the rippy locals gone. Just me and some glassy navel high peelers. Stokin' session. 80 degree beach weather. Bikinis at 9am. What a 96 hours its been!

2.9 @ 9 secs from 320
1st and only out