Again

Sad. I live for the dark dawn into day dawn. Not today. Hope everyone pulls through.

2.1 @ 11secs from 305

Edgy

LA graff seen around these parts. Dead on to how the waves have been the last couple of days. Grimy and edgy. Windblown and floppy. Good and coulda been better. Can't put my finger on it. Weird, albeit fun, coupla days.



3.1 @ 14secs from 285

I think I can.

Sun tryin' to push through the foggy clouds.
Swell tryin' to push trough the thicky tide.
Wind trying to mess up the mornin' glass.
My little fat single lovin' the lumpy smooth walls.
Only regret is missin' it this afternoon at a certain spot.
Be thankful.

4.3 @ 9 secs from 280

Playful

Better today. A little more shape. Got a couple with my little single that made me remember why I love 'em so. That perfect bottom turn where you feel the fin just turnin' you up into the high line beat that super fast section speed. It was all about beatin' them sections this morning. Foggy beauty in a solo style.

3.4 @ 12secs from 270

Miss it.

Wow. What a exploration. How long has it been? Down south. Deep but not too far. Beautiful culture. Stoked kids. Ripper kids. 2 out of 3 boards made it back. Homemade #2 snapped in sandy point overhead mackin' fun. She led a good life and hope some kid can, or wants, to piece her together. Green hills and sandy land for miles and miles. Only a handful of tourists.

Bet that south hit good around here. Read some insane reports. But now imagine where that hit even better. 80 degree warm water. Burnt. Toasted. Spent. Smilin'!!!

Hard to paddle around in 59 degree shin high'ers this mornin' but had to get back into the city life swing o' things.

2.4 @ 11 secs from 215