Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Monday, July 27, 2009
Today was perfect. Chest high leftovers with no one out. Just as I thought. Well, one other dude came out, but not 'til 7am. By then, I was tired of the long peelers.
Wow, what a swell. I'm battered. I'm stoked out. Haven't felt that power since a couple winters ago. Paid for it on the early part of this swell though. After a month of being too sick, too lazy, too much late night revelry, and no surf...my arms were slow to paddle. Feet were slow to set. But when they did, man it was wooooosh.
RIP wedge surfer Mr. Valantin.
2.2 @ 14secs from 195