Bouncy

Even windy and bumpy and smaller days can be fun if you time 'em right.

The ocean turns into a huge skatepark with ramps and sections and blips.

Bring out the skate-iest board you have and have a go at it. Repeat. Again.

Fun amongst the fungi. Thrash amongst the trash. Turns amongst the turds.

3.7 @ 14 secs from 305

In Tune

This buddy is a photographer up in the out there somewhere. He nests in a little cabin him and his pops made a long time ago. Dad long gone but his structure is holdin' strong. Out back out of this picture's view is another duplicate hut. Buddy fixed it up nice as a shaping hangout room. The dad never shaped a board, didn't care about it, but rode the shit out of his boards. Later he started riding his sons boards and drawing lines he never felt before. Lines from the imperfections of the homemade boards but it was still new fun. He would ask for the same board every 6 months or so. 7 foot single fins. That's all he wanted and all he needed. Kid finally got around to shapin' a good stick and the dad was stoked. Just them and maybe a couple others would venture this far and very little knew what they had out their wooden front door.


Both regular-footed, the Tolman's were in liquid nirvana. Swells would come fairly often and 200 yard rights with a kind hollow section at the final legs of it would appear. Knew every rock and boil. Speed spots and sections. Tides and swell angles. Lived their lives around the nature of their front yard. Fished around the seasons. Self sustanible and happy. Always gracious to the few people that would venture though off the beaten road. Would welcome it. And as with every vistitor, it was known that this tucked away nook should be left undisturbed and undiclosed.

Fresh fish every night and slippery wetsuits in the morning.

5.3 @ 17 secs from 310 and sloppy

Pick

One is from the South Bay today.
The other is from the Great Lakes.

Your pick.

4.1 @ 14 secs from 305 and WINDY

Garbage

Storm a' comin'.
Nothin' brewin'.
Wind a' blowin'.
Bitchin' n' moanin'.

4.5 @ 14 secs from 315

Time for a Commercial

Was readin' the new Surfer's Journal which, by the way, has some amazing old school Southern Californian pics and stories from Bev Morgan. And I came across an Alaskan story that was very interesting. Always loved the Great North and all of its mysterious adventure and seemingly tons of prime surf setups. The article was written by a Paul Ferraris. Known as Mexi on E's site way back. Finish that cool story of him and his buds biking and camping and surfing up and down Alaska and the next article is on this artist. The first fucking paragraph said something like "I was set up in San Francisco by art curator and surfer Bob Carrillo..." What? That, I think, is the same dude that was Bad Vibe Bob on E's. Too weird.

Things got even more weird as I clicked on E's old site for the first time in forever. It's finally updated and there is a blurb about possibly resurrecting his site in the future. And, in the meantime, read a new Mexi interview (interviewed before his Alaskan trip).

Must have been that chesire cat smilin' crescent moon that was dipping low in the ocean last night that made everything come together at once. Strange indeed.

Didn't surf. Didn't check it. Sure there is some steep goods left.

4.3 @ 10 secs from 205

Irish Eyes

are a smilin'.

Waves! Waves!
Sets were plentiful.
Me and two ladies on the peak.
Beautiful to watch and enjoy them rippin'.
Smokin' eyes and sexy mouths and surfin' stoke.
But don't daydream and think about droppin' in on them.
Whack! As her spray lands on me paddling back from a good slide.
Oh baby, do that again. Good fun out there today with some new friends.

6.7 @ 12 secs from 305

Addicted

Damn. Can't remember the artists' name but it fits. Neg low tide goodness. You want it little kid? Yes. Yes. Yes!!

Filthy, dirty, stinkin' water but a good fresh clean swell comin' through. Fun times in front of the rocks. Becoming more consistent. It was quantity over quality though. Just couldn't get the beast movin' down the line fast enough on some takeoffs. Felt the couple days off to mess up my rhythm just enough. The quality ones more than made up for the missteps, however. So close to the barrel. So close.

Today should be the day it all comes together at a certain time and place. Good angle. 17 sec energy. Jonesin' right now. Can't sleep. Need it. Need my drug.

One head out told me a fox washed up down at the farthest north jetty yesterday mornin'. Nice. Love the spill.

7.3 @ 17 secs from 285

Fucking Lame Shit

Actual pic of the spill at Ballona Creek.

Wanted to get a surf in so bad tomorrow morn. Haven't been wet for a couple of days and I am going nuts. Now more sewage spills happenin' in these parts. When will the Ocean be treated like the Queen she is? Damn.


"Portions of Dockweiler State and Venice beaches were closed today after a raw sewage spill Wednesday afternoon.

The closure, which was announced Wednesday by L.A. County health officials, runs one mile north and south of Ballona Creek's mouth, where the sewage reached the ocean, officials said. Meanwhile, Will Rogers State Beach in Pacific Palisades remains closed because of high bacteria levels from a minor spill last week into a creek there.

The beaches will be off limits until at least Friday afternoon, pending water quality tests, officials said.

"Due to this sewage discharge, Los Angeles County residents and visitors to the area should avoid contact with the ocean water near the point of discharge until these portions of the beach have been deemed safe to reopen," said Jonathan E. Fielding, Los Angeles County public health director, in a statement. "We will be conducing water quality assessments to test the level of bacteria in the water. The beach will remain closed until test results indicate that bacteria levels meet health safety standards."

Sewage flowed for about an hour Wednesday afternoon until it was stopped by the city of Los Angeles' sanitation workers.

In Pacific Palisades, portions of Will Rogers beach are closed 100 yards on both sides of Santa Monica Canyon Creek. "

5.2 @ 12 secs from 295

Needed

Cold ol' dumpy schlumpy mornin' for me at Point Pants. Some fun ones but most you had to really milk to make the sections connect. Just me and the sea lion. Weirdly angled wobby close interval swell.

But it was enough to stoke and cleanse me.


6.3 @ 12secs from 295

Many Moons

Same moon, different beach.
Fun morn' last week.
Small and tall.
No one around.
Moonset. Sunrise.

This morning? Nothing special. Just regular surfing in the Mother O.

4.2 @ 12secs from 255!

Glorious

Oh what a weekend. Only bad thing was the dirty water and having to burn a lot of gas. Consistent head high plus swell. A lot of spots firin'. Just pick a couple. Buddies getting barrels but none for me. Beautifully warm weather meshing with the crisp cool water. Good pics. Good laughs. Great stoke. Great fun swell. So fun. So fun.

3.8 at 14secs from 305 swell still trying to hang on

fishin'

Jamaican lady as I walked back up the hill: You get some good waves, boy?
Suuuuuuuuper fun waves, ma'am.

Holy shit. My summer love is still true. Dippin' and divin' down the glassy walls. Fishin' to the most. Perfect morning. Great angle makin' the sections disappear. Long long fishy fun.

Only wish I could go back at the low. Oohh my.


6.3 @ 14secs from 280
Only one other out.

I loved you more in the Summer

Was expecting this former session to be similar this morn.
Drove to a point in the foggy pre dawn.
Sat in the dark hopin' I am in a lull.
Sun came out and still no swell.
Sat and sat on the super high tide.
Little sea lion starin’ curiously at me.
Two meager pushes from the new blip.
Cold ass ocean.
Sucked actually.

4.1 @ 12 secs from 265(!!)
Only dumb one out.