Heady

Foggy, fishin' and burnin'.

Thick lovely fog. Spliffin' in the bushes beforehand. Rocksteady. Had the day off and needed to see how the other side of the homemade board felt.

Less shape but better when the tide got higher. Talked to a guy who paddled out later in the morn who said "good to see it is that time of year again, where I see you runnin' down to the ocean at 5am stoked".

3.8 @ 14secs from 305

Lovin'

Good lumpy high tide lovin' this morn. Thought it would be a good day to dust off the dust from the last lam and try out my newly homemade fatty. She's 5'3" and red rice and beans definitely didn't miss her. About 21 3/4 wide.

A couple steep drops to closeouts.
A couple feet in the wrong spot.
A couple of kook outs.
Then a couple of speeeeed burners.


Love the board already. She's fast. Gonna have a real good time this season.


4.2 @ 12 seconds from 305

surf tunes

Go find it. 18 tracks. Crystal Voyager, Innermost Limits Of Pure Fun, Morning Of The Earth, on and on. Good listenin' for the dark DP rides. Gets ya goin'.

1.6 @ 12secs from 300