Sharin'

And carin'. Grey cold days up North with buddies and family. This snap of family swapin' boards on a beautiful day. I kept the swap for a couple of days to get a handle on it. Felt weird to ride an over 6' board. But even weirder to see my brother ridin' my homemade better than I ever have. Fucking ass.

Twas a good holiday, hopefully for all.

1.9 @ 12secs from 310

Once more

A reposted snap I took way back in the early days of pushingtide. Rememberin' this good day. Offshore. Overhead. Warm air. Hidden gems.

Man Christmas seemed better back then!

Oh well. Get barrelled this holiday!!

4.1 @ 14secs from 310

Yes

Nicked this from somewhere on the web...


This is really only what you need in life.

Nature.
Shelter.
Fish.


Poo @ poo secs from poo degrees

The Frogfish!

6'9"x20 1/2"x2 5/8" Mid 1970's. Shaped by Bobby Kazanis.






5'3"x20x2 3/8" Late 2008. Shaped by Pushingtide.


Frogfish. Discovered in the mid 1800's. Shaped by Mother Nature.

I know I already talked shit about this recreation. I know I said it felt kooky to ride. But I am kinda kooky too so who knows. It was still a fun experience and the ol’ board was resurrected! And it floats. I’ll take her out again in the future.

“Frogfish are small in nature. They don’t swim in a conventional way. And their camouflage is further aided by numerous warts and filaments on their skin.” -wikipedia.

Shit that sounds like my board!!! Perfect.

2.1 @ 14secs from 305

Amphibian

If you make the trip along the coast down by El Porto and El Segundo way, I am sure you have seen this boat washed up on its side, layin' on land. It has been there for over a month and lately it has got some good ol' graff thrown up on it. I am sure some dudes are living in it by now too.

I need to get a closer look, this snap taken as I was driving by. Anyone know the story on it?

Didn't surf this morn. Should have.

3.8 @17secs from 275

Reminiscencin'

Blown and weak finally. What a great run! Drove up into the mountains instead to see something new. Crisp and very wintery but still in LA country. Pine tree barrels and no sign of the smoggy city.

Stopped by an Native American run little museum shop up in the hills. First thing I saw was this Indian poster over some old weavebaskets. Long peelin' offshore walls from a lovely South. I sat their droolin' and rememberin' some of the classic days we had this summer. Mindsurfed a couple set waves.

What I wouldn't give to live in one of those little teepees on the point!

3.3 @17secs from 285

Caught

Kinda felt like this all mornin'. Just barely getting caught by the dumpin' whitewater. Lemme go! Walled. Some corners. Some fun. Some frustration.

Will pick the better tides this weekend with mo' time. There were some speedy runs this morn for sure. Keep it comin' storms!!

4.1 @17secs from 290

Gone

Goin' off all December.
Goin' off in Hawaii.
Goin' off in California.
Goin' off 'round here soon.
I'm goin' off!

6.1 @17secs from 285

Sea

Love this pic of our oceanic playground.
Dude getting' barrelled flyin' down the line.
Dude duck divin' deeep to not get obliterated by the lip.
Dude out way back kite surfin' in the air.
Everyone has fun in the sea.

Big and thumpy and closeouty with an occasional screamin' corner. Glad I went out in the gray fog this dawn.

4.5 @ 17secs from 295

Alive

This ol' snap sums up the up north trip. Buddies, dutchies, fishies and hikin' in the cool fog. Water is so crisp and clear up above LA. Everything feels more alive and "nature-y". People are more real and down home. Just a different lovely vibe.

Oh and my renewed homemade worked OK. Only surfed it a couple of times and always would trade it out for my other fish. Think it is more of a novelty than anything. Still cool to surf some of the same spots on the same foam, just reworked. Maybe I'll get used to it. Maybe it will just be a story to tell.

Back home the last couple days just in time for more big swell. Certain places blown out, certain places not working and certain places doin' it well. How fuckin' great is surfing!!!!!!

5.1 @ 17secs from 295