Feelin' Foam

After that grand run of swell I have been a fairly lazy bum. Not risin' early in the morn. Not gettin' in the water. And not doing much. So I finally started to shave down my blank. Ahhh hot damn that feels good runnin' your hands along freshly cut foam.

Shapin' and surfing's such a perfect match. You make what you feel. And you feel what you make.

1.3 @ 8 secs from 305

All Right

No matta your politics, your religion, your race or your anything. You gotta be a little stoked that our new leader is throwin' shakas. Hang loose.

Yes we all need to.

Fun surfin'. Swell stickin' around still. Tighter periods lead to silky fast walls. Hopefully tomorrow still has some left.

3.9 @ 14secs from 280

Surfer

Medium sized fun beautifully sunny day in LA. Warm air and crisp water is a perfect combo. Took out the 5'8" homemade single for a different kick.

Surfed with the kneeboarder again who is stoked on a altered twin fin which he carved out this trippy tail. He would just drop so late and grab the highline so fast on it.

Amazing thing is that he only has one leg. He crawls out of the water over to his crutches. Then he balances his board and hobbles the 1/2 mile walk to the car. Such an inspiration every time I see him. Always give a wave and never take your life for granted.

4.1 @ 20secs from 285

Swifty

Curren screamin' on a 5'6". Lovin' it. Nothing better than super short wide boards.

Found over at the Swift Surfboards site....

"FUN CAN'T BE STOPPED. SIMMONS'S PHILOSOPHY WAS TO BUILD
JUST ENOUGH BOARDS TO SUPPORT HIS SURFING HABIT."

Great philosphy.


1.5 @ 8secs from 315

Full and Low

Gimmie that right off the headland. Stony mindsurfin'. Bucolic paintin'. Then lemme build a house up there. Stairsteppin' down to the shore. I'd need nothin' much more.

Brightest full moon this weekend. Lowest of the minus tides this weekend. Santa Ana's howlin'.

We are all on the sea's clock.

2.6 @ 13secs from 305

Summer Love

Been away from the ocean for far too long but it didn't sound like I missed much if anything. Strapping on a snowboard, piggin' out on holiday crap, and seeing different parts of the country. Get back into town and see an out of season south showin'. Stoked!

Hit the ol' fun summer spot and was the first out. About as fuckin' freezing as it gets around here, 39 air and low 50's water but no matter. Fun chest sets rollin' in which got me back in the fishy fun groove. Man I have missed those long ass point waves. Didn't feel too kooky on my ol' homemade either. Didn't miss the outta shape paddle back outs though.

It was so clear this morning, you could see another island out there past Catalina. I guess it was San Nicolas Island or San Clemente Island? Never seen it before. You can see a piece of the island in this snap I nicked from swellmagnet.

Looks like the south is already tapering off, hope you all got some surf somehow over the holidays!


2.7 @17secs from 185