Dreamin'

After surfing the points and reefs all summer it is a huge head change adapting to the shifting, pulsing, thick walling beach breaks. You gotta be quicker to your feet, quicker in your head, no second guessing, no lazy takeoff fade to the shoulder stylee, just spin, up, drop, pump, fight, and get out alive. You are on it.

Actually love the beachies better because of the quantity of waves. The disparity of every wave, the quick decision making, the feel when the bottom drops out, the hunting for the right line. And some lefts finally. But maannn do I wish I could have some of those suuuper long point rides again. In warm water. Where you can do whatever you want on the wave, try different moves, fuck around, and have a nice no duck dive paddle back out. Seasons change. You gotta adapt.

Didn't check it this morn however.

2.4 @ 4 secs from 310

Bad Pipe

Mannn, what a holiday weekend at beachbreaks up north of SB as you can see. Good. Clean. Glassy. Foggy. Lumpy. Power. Legitimate barrels. No in-n-outs by me but I tried. Holiday! Winter!

Got out this morning in the rainfall. Knew that the drainpipes would not empty into the ocean yet. As I was getting out, the runoff was about halfway across the beach, inching toward polluting our beautiful ocean. Love rainy surfs. Not much in the way of waves left but was very cleansing.

Speaking of pollution, if you surf in the South Bay, don't. For the rest of this week, the Hyperion Treatment Plant is "evaluating" and "identifying" trouble spots with their 5 mile outflow drain pipe and will be instead using the 1 mile drain pipe. Do the math. And this pipe has NEVER been inspected in the 50 years it has been active. About a million gallons of sewage only going a mile out instead of 5 miles out!?! And is 5 miles out even really that good, can't they get rid of that somewhere else? Click here to see their "progress".

Shitty.

2.6 @ 8 secs from 310
(1st out)

Grateful

2.5 @ 11secs from 315
3rd out (I'm slippin')

Gimmie Gimmie

Last Autumn I ventured over to the upper upper East. Roll into the small fishing town where my buddies call home. Drinkin' and laughin' at the local dive bars waaay up in our country. Fishing stories. Surf stories. Non-West coast stories. Hard stories.

The freezing bite of the air makes you so very awake and aware of all of your senses. Ending the first night by sitting on their porch at 1am burning a nice northeast spliff and planning the following morn, I knew it would be a special trip. Drift off to a tape of some local surf grainy footage.

Next morning came fast but when you aren't home, missing your sleep doesn't really have the same effect. You are stoked and ready. Buddy telling me to close my eyes are certain turn-offs on our surf check. He is kidding, but not really. I understand. Windy green roads. Up and down little hills. In and out of nooks. Trees turning every color. Too beautiful for a California kid's eyes.

Finally pick a spot. Peelin' left point. I am overly giddy and slightly bummed knowing this is the last new spot I will see this morning. Who cares. Water is clear and the swell is head high. Pumpin'. Scary. Exhillarating. Booties and hoodies. Hit the ocean and you instantly feel ALIVE. Backside lefts, missing barrels, outrunning the lip, electrified, getting the point wired, skate ramp feel, take in the scenery, the feel of the Atlantic Ocean. Hootin' and hollerin'. Repeat. And then repeat.

Gotta get back. Soon.

Didn't check the small high tide mush this morn, but the buoys showing 2.2 @ 11secs from 315

Eve-Check-Go-Out

Bruno Turpin
"Evening Check"
Private Collection - France
50x61cm



Great Turpin art. I felt this painting last night. Checkin' spots. Knowin' if you look heard enough not many will be around. Drivin' the coast.

Pulled up to a cove-y like spot and enjoyed solo waist high plus waves. Tried to glass off. Water felt especially nice. Some good push. Still consistent.

Beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeautiful feeling seeing the orange red yellow purple sunset, maybe it was all the more perfect since I never get weekday afternooon seshs. Autumn in LA!



2.4 @ 12secs from 315

eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee's

Seems like forever ago but I used to love plopping down at my desk, hair wet, saltwater drippin’ from my nose, trying to warm up with coffee, feet frozen, and continuing my surf stoke with a little San Francisco website named E’s Surf Report. His writing and stoke were incredible and inspiring. I loved to read how my up North neighbors fared from their morning paddle-outs. How the art scene was going up there. How the dot-com crew were invading Ocean Beach.

A term the niceness heads coined was something called ASL, “Authentic Surf Lifestyle”. It was used constantly to rip on the fake “soul surfers” and the “trucker hat surfers”. Anyway, I saw this graffiti tag this morning on my way into work and it was classic. Has the ASL gang moved South for the winter? I am afraid.


Didn’t paddle out today so no checky the buoys.

Sur? Sure.

Waay up north campin'. Twisting roads and twisting trees. Pumpin' swell on Sunday.

Beautiful waves beautifully ridden by all. Cool heads. Cool water. Cool vibes.

Perfect sunny blue day on our rocky green coast.

8.8 @ 12secs from 305

Altered

Just like the site's namesake, it was a pushin’ tide this morn. Everything felt different, new, exciting, weird, fun, strange. Heightened sense of touch and sound. New faces, new sights, new markers, new sea-life, new rips, new rocks, new feel, same love.

Swell was rolling in pretty good. Snagged a bunch. Pulled back on a couple. Early season jitters. For no reason. Wind stayed down and I got held down.

Need a new board so bad. The cut in half egg board ain’t gonna cut it in early “winter”.

3.8 @ 11secs from 300 degrees

Clear

Beautiful warm clear glassy morn.

With no waves.

Couple locals walked down from their beachside house and paddled out on canoes, paddleboards, kayak. Must be nice. Another day for a sea-living local.

SUPER high tide and a great morning to swim around the point.



1.7 @ 17secs from 170

Eensy

You know, I am never gonna bitch about crowds again after this week. I logged 4 days, and about 15 hours before work and only shared waves for about an hour out of those 15 with another soul. I was kinda hopin' someone would paddle out just trade off rides with.

That said, this morn was the worst of the week. Funny how all the sites were saying the swells would peak today. Maybe it was the even more super high tide or just too early for the swell, but there was nothing. Glassy, solo, waist high with one rib cage high wave over the 3 hours. Colder. Boring, if it could ever be, sunrise.

Had to lineup just left of the catamaran. In the rocky parts. But the tide was over 6'. Some fun backwashy steep inside sections.

1.9 @ 14secs from 180
1st and only out

Lumpy

Alone again except for one other that paddled out for an hour. Cool head. Lumpy backwashy waist high waves. A couple chest that were mainly chest high only because of the backwash. Another fun Los Angeles morn. Lotsa rides. Several noserides. Coupla mushy cutbacks.

These summer morning spots are going to hibernate for winter soon so you gotta get all that you can. Weird paddling out with some faint light. Been super dark paddle outs for the last dozen or so sessions.

Cool Spencer Reynolds art up top.

Only 1.4 @ 17secs from 200 degrees.
1st out

Pallid

Lonely. Isolated. Gray. Ashen. Cold. Dark. Longer sessions. Sea life. Smaller. Left-overs. Tricks. Treats. Thoughts. Alone. Rememberance. Future.




1.9 @ 14secs from 195
1st out (always representin'!!!)