Ledgy

"Rodney at Matakana Island, NZ 1975"

Felt so good to get some good drop and go's the last couple days.

Nothin' better than gray glassy dps.

2.6 @ 17secs from 305

Life

Grandfather's hands. Just turned 96. Full life. Hardcore carpenter and whittler. In his late years he would still go to whittling conventions where they would say, here is a block of wood, make a ____ out of it in 2 minutes. Amazing almost lost art.

He surprised me one year with a wood carved surfer. Not some cheesy stanced typical surfer Cardiff style. Nope, his was of an ancient Hawaiian, no trunks but a loincloth around his waist, even had him standing on a wave made of driftwood. Incredible to me. Should post a pic of it one day. Hopefully I picked up an ounce of his talent and drive and life.

My grandmother, his wife obviously, died recently and he is devastated. 76 years(!!!) of marriage will do that to you. Rad. Sad.

Need some cleansin' today. Keep on truckin' Grandpa!

4.1 @ 12secs from 295

Island Cane

Island style. Prime Primo. Ono.

Dude said that was the last sixer of his shipment. It'll help my homemade glassing go a little smoother today.

What is better than gettin' some decent waves this morning and then finishin' up your homemade while you try hard to imagine you are on the Islands instead of in your cold garage? Ha, not much.

3.1 @ 14secs from 290

Heaven

At a certain Ranch up north...

115 acres. Main House. Guest House. And Barn. All yours for just a hair under 11 million. hollisterranch130.com

3.2 @ 10secs from 305

Solitude

Not much to say lately. Other than gimmie this wave. I'll just bring a tent and my new homemade. Some beers to share with the locals around the fire at night. I'd be happy.

4.6 @ 10secs from 300

Lucky

Joe snaps. Surprisingly fun rainy stormy weekend. Had small windows both weekend days to surf and mostly drove down just to check it. Whoa! That looks good. And crowded. People jonesin'. Get me sick from runoff, don't care. Need waves. Repeat on Sunday.

Guess I lucked out although I heard some even better tales from the better spots.

4.2 @ 12secs from 310

Soon

Feels like just yesterday I was out waitin' for the final lumps of the final South of the summer. That turned into being stoked for Winter who was on her way.
Bigger lumps!
Cold bruisers!.
Beachbreak beatdowns!
Well that didn't really happen this season. Oh well.

Now I am back jonesin' and thinkin' about this sunrise view again. Super early dark sessions waitin' for dawn to break.
Shortjohn lovin'!
Warm peelers!
Pointbreak fishin'!!!
Well I hope that happens this season. Soon come.

1.1 @ 12secs from 310

Simplicity

Damn. Humans these days. Need the most up to date state of the art shit. Need wool-lined wetsuits to rip. Need a brand new surfboard every 6 months to shred. Need the latest skate trucks to ollie. Need the latest skateboard to grind. Need a masonite half pipe to thrash.

Not these dudes back in the day. Rippin' and shreddin' on the most warped, patched together, cheapest of wood ramps. And on those boards.

If you have the love, you'll find a way. Not the other way around.

2.2 @ 12secs from 310